POWERGRAMS

25 state license but without restricted hours) is another lure. Just down the road is Archery Park, which originated as an air gun range that hosted major tournaments before branching out to bows and arrows with the help of state and national groups. Visitors now can practice with either weapon, oen in organized competitions. This kind of rec success is unusual for a small town but nothing new to Heflin, which 25 years ago was named a Top 50 High School Sports Town by Sports Illustrated. Perry has directed the city program since the turn of the century. The Heflin Recreation Center offers "a lile bit of everything," from gymnastics to basketball to indoor track to senior activities. Within a stone's throw of the gym are football, soccer, baseball, soball and T-ball fields, baing cages and playgrounds. A renovated armory hosts exercise classes, pageants, plays and civic events. The Arts Center that opened eight years ago in an old school building has classes for sewing, arts, high school equivalency and other needs. "We do a lot with a lile," Perry says. "We're really proud of what we do." Wine, wine, everywhere a wine Before Prohibition, the wine industry was a major employer in Cleburne County. Winemaking is undergoing a rebirth across Alabama, with vintners like Keith Roberts leading the way. Roberts, 61, was a long-time beer drinker who hoped to brew his own in retirement before geing pushed in another direction. "It was kind of by accident," says the former jeweler, government consultant, trucker, paramedic, firefighter and dirt bike enthusiast. "About 10 years ago, I said, 'I need a new hobby, something that won't get me killed.'" Friends suggested making wine, which he didn't drink and knew nothing about. But he found out brewing high-quality beer is more difficult. Roberts began to dabble in wine and liked what he made. So did his friends. Three years ago, Roberts bought an old house, extensively remodeled it and opened High Country Cellars near Interstate 20. Using many local ingredients in 12 stainless steel vats, he now boxes or displays 3,300 boles of "custom-fermented, handcraed fruit libations" from each two- to three-month production cycle. The alcohol content of each bole is 12.5 percent – or up to the 1.5 percent variance above that allowed by state law. "There's no watering down in any aspect," he says. High Country Cellars markets 45-50 varieties, all made and sold by Roberts and his four part-time local employees. There are semi-sweet, sweet and dry wines made from and named for the apples, blackberries, cherries, peaches, strawberries and other fruits dropped into the vats lining a wall just behind the sales floor and tasting room. "Diversity is what people notice, and no one has the selection we have," Roberts says. The most popular is "Skeeter P" (which is three leers longer on the label) and is made with apples, pears and peaches. Roberts says the unusual name is a "two-beer story," but the tale made short is that one friend disparaged the original batch because of a cloudy color but another buddy said it tasted good "so just call it skeeter (urine) and put it in a bole because I want to take some home!" "It's by far our No. 1 seller, since the day we opened and until we closed last night," says Roberts. Roberts is annoyed by the reputation given California wine country and its highly publicized products. He favors the wines produced at 15 wineries along the Alabama Wine Trail. His wines either have no residual sugar, 1.3 percent or 2.5 percent, which is healthier for weight-watchers or diabetics, Roberts says. Some popular national brands have residual sugar levels of 10 percent to 12 percent and "taste like pancake syrup," he says. Every High Country Cellars bole is $12.99, although Roberts gives a 10 percent discount for cases, which drops the price to $11.70 each. Sixty-five percent of business is from out of town customers who read a Wine Trail brochure, see a highway sign or hear about the Heflin winery on social media. It is illegal in Alabama to sell wine online or outside the state. Roberts says his store is usually "packed out" with visitors on Saturdays. Recent customers signed in Vintner Roberts pours samples for customers. High Country Cellars produces award-winning wines.

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