POWERGRAMS

33 year before the Founding Fathers declared their independence from Great Britain, noted naturalist William Bartram wrote in his diary that the triangle where the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers form the Alabama River was "one of the most eligible situations for a city in the world." Bartram was no Nostradamus: People had been living on the thin, flat, flood-free slice of land since Jesus Christ walked through the Holy Land. Yet Bartram reinforced for the coming flood of European settlers what Native Americans had known for thousands of years. Were Bartram to return to the National Historic Landmark today known as Fort Toulouse-Fort Jackson State Park, he would find it similar to what he saw in 1775, although it now includes a mile- long namesake arboretum trail. Indeed, nine times each year men and women re-enactors camp at the former fort grounds to portray American, British, French and Native American residents who helped make the site one of the most historic anywhere. Living History days monthly from January to June and September to November bring the forts to life for schoolchildren and adults. Alabama Frontier Days Nov. 1-4 is the largest educational gathering in the state. "Frontier Days is our keystone event," says Ove Jensen, site director since 2014 following 20 years with the National Park Service and the Army. "It represents a lot of work by a lot of people, but you get to see a lot of happy visitors. We feel like that's what we exist for." Frontier Days is a snapshot of Alabama history 1700-1820, covering colonial times through statehood. The other events represent the French-Indian War and War of 1812, including a two-day encampment exhibition in April. But visitors on any other day will have little difficulty feeling the history of the forested bluff 3 miles from downtown Wetumpka. Within a few hundred yards are replica buildings representing each era of Fort Toulouse/Jackson and the Indians who once dwelled on the 160 acres of parkland. It is difficult to imagine any visitor not feeling a twinge of emotion, a marriage with history while walking beneath the Spanish moss-covered trees around a 20-foot-tall mound built by people who 1,000 years ago established the first permanent village at the conflux of waterways. It is easy to imagine the French Marines finding "happy" shelter so far from their life across the ocean. "I visualize a French troop coming up the river from Mobile with supplies and letters from home," Jensen says as he looks downstream from the riverbank. "Just imagine how happy those people would be." Jensen's workplace has history written all over it. Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto trekked through the area in 1540. The Alibamu Indians occupied the site in 1680, eventually inviting the French, who built the first Fort Toulouse in 1717. The French built two more forts, living peacefully for 40 years with the Indians – sometimes marrying them – before the British defeated them in 1763. The French, and many Indians, were forced out and the Creek Indians founded Taskigi at the same site. But the biggest event in the history of Fort Toulouse was yet to come. Gen. Andrew Jackson arrived in 1814 after the battle of Horseshoe Bend near modern- day Alex City. The future U.S. president had hardly completed the new American fort before Creek chiefs signed a treaty handing over 23 million acres of tribal lands to the U.S. Visitors today can walk where each of the forts once stood. A re-creation log cabin is near the corner of the area, within sight of the Indian mound. " There's probably over 8,000 years of human history right here," Jensen says, looking across the small field surrounded by trees. " These rivers are natural roadways and would supply all the needs of the community. While many of the early visitors were transitory, there's probably been 2,000 years of steady occupation on this spot." Admission for each Living History single-day event is the standard park fee of $2 for adults and $1 for children. The French & Indian War Encampment is $4 for adults and $2 for children, while Frontier Days is $8/$7. On each occasion, visitors can tour re-creations of the 1751 Fort Toulouse, Creek Indian summer and winter houses, Fort Jackson's log cabin, a blacksmith shop and the 1830s-era Graves House visitor center and gift shop. On the special weekend history events that draw nearly a quarter of the annual 60,000 visitors, up to 200 re-enactors from across the nation will gather to demonstrate military and mercantile specialties of various eras during which the forts and villages occupied the land. "When the events take place, these houses come alive," Jensen says inside an authentic-style clay-walled building. " The re-enactors sleep and eat in here. It's a family affair." Fort Toulouse/Jackson Park is a year- round campground, offering 39 RV sites with electric and water hookup, grill and picnic table for $18 a night ($16 for tent only). Use of the Coosa River boat ramp is available for $2. There is a bathhouse, picnic pavilion, benches and refuse station in the camping area. Walker County native Nathan Black had never been to Fort Toulouse until his daughter convinced him to tour it after his retirement. Now he is a daily volunteer at the park entrance. "It is a beautiful place," he says, sitting in a beach chair on the road. " You aren't far from a lot of city things, but it's so quiet and peaceful. I came here five years ago and haven't left." TIME SHARE By Chuck Chandler FORT TOULOUSE-JACKSON TAKES VISITORS TO CENTURIES PAST

• Cover