POWERGRAMS

31 "This house has a large number of closets, which was unusual for the time because they were taxed the same as a large room," says Parker. "Mr. Young had closets in almost every room." The upstairs floors were never given a paint finish, instead being covered with straw mats tacked together, then replaced through the years as they became worn. The front bedroom has been converted into a museum with children's toys, a Confederate battle flag and other period relics. Visitors may climb the 20 steps from the second floor to the cistern loft where trunks were once stored, then another 20 steps to a second loft and the cupola with windows providing a 360 degree view of Eufaula. "It was called a 'widow's walk' because women would wait inside these watching to see if their husbands were coming home," Parker says. "When this house was built, all these tall trees weren't here, so you could see all the way to the river." River City Grill Steve Cox smiles when he says opening the River City Grill is the "worst thing I ever did." His loyal patrons think the restaurant is one of the best things to happen to Eufaula fine dining and night life. "I went from retired to working 80 hours a week," says Cox, a former healthcare executive who also owns nearby Graffiti's Pizza Joint, which employs a dozen workers, and the Last Call spirits and tobacco shop, which is the town's only nonstate- owned alcohol retailer. The grill is clearly Cox's pride and joy, after having converted a former Italian restaurant and wine shop in two 1870s buildings on East Broad Street into a thriving new business in the middle of the historic district. At 7 p.m. on a Thursday, business is steady, with a small room packed by diners behind a clear wall of wine bottles. There is no room available in three leather- backed booths or six tables in the area surrounding the bar. One of the tables under the tall wood awning outside is open, as are a couple of barstools. The large dining room in the adjacent building begins to fill as frequent customers greet Cox, who is concerned there is one couple browsing the menu who he doesn't know. "We try to serve dishes with sort of a unique Southern style, taking some familiar favorites and adding a little twist on them," says Cox, who has a New Orleans chef among his 21 other local staffers. "We have a lot of people from Atlanta who eat here on their way to the beach. We want to provide the best possible quality of food, atmosphere and service." Pete Parrish, a Plant Farley scheduling analyst, stops by the bar to compliment Cox on his party's meal. Parrish says he is a regular at "the best place to eat in our town." Cox says he takes extra steps to ensure a special experience for regular and first-time customers alike. He buys smoked pork from Colquitt, Georgia. Meats are hand-cut in house. Wild rice is brought in from Wisconsin. The Grill seats about 100 people, with the staff usually serving 200 or so on Friday and Saturday nights, and up to 600 for Valentine's Day. Pilgrimage weekends are big. Popular entrees include the shrimp and grits with tasso ham and cheese, the champagne chicken or gourmet burgers. Pecan pie cheesecake, the most popular dessert, isn't on the printed menu but outsells everything else by double. Cox has eight craft beers on tap and keeps the bar stocked with unusual brands, which pleases a Hungary native who's perched at the end of the long wooden countertop. "People gets a few drinks, socialize a little," Cox says standing in front of a sign that reads "Save water, drink beer." At the other end of the bar stands a man with dreadlocks almost to his waist and a beard reaching his chest. Kenneth Cox would seem out of place were he not his dad's business partner. He says his 12-year growth of braided Rastafarian- style hair didn't initially go over well in Eufaula but doesn't get a second glance nowadays. Kenneth is a classically trained musician who plays banjo, mandolin, guitar, bass and piano in Spirit Farm, his rock band that sometimes plays at River City Grill on weekends. Kenneth recommends the blackened redfish topped with crawfish Julie on a bed of rice pilaf to a first-time diner. He says there's not a lot of money to be made in a white cloth restaurant in a little town but his family is happy if they can just break even. "I guarantee you cannot get a better meal in Eufaula or in New Orleans," he says as a waitress serves the entree. A few minutes later, the plate is no longer steaming but rendered clean as a whistle. Superior Pecans Jan Shoffit doesn't shift or shuffle when solicited about the supposed status of her top-seller. "It's the South," says the owner of Superior Pecans & Gifts. "The South has the best pecans in the nation. I've been out West and in other places they're grown, and they don't match ours." Flowers painted on walls were restored; cupola and 'widow's walk' remain high above Eufaula. River City Grill occupies two 1870s buildings in historic downtown. Pecan Pie Cheesecake is a favorite at River City Grill

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